travel
Walking to meet heroes
In October 1705 Johann Sebastian Bach set out on foot on a journey of 260 miles. He was twenty years old. He’d recently been in a brawl with a musician he’d insulted in the market place of his home town of Arnstadt in Thuringia, central Germany. The church authorities who employed him as organist in […]
A biodiversity lesson from India
We tread softly behind our guide, taking care not to make the dry leaves crackle and alarm the birds around the Chambal Lodge estate. He points upwards, to a branch where owls are asleep (it’s mid-afternoon, and we’re surprised to see owls at all). A large Scops owl sits stock still, and stares at us […]
Anglesey Coast Path, day 4
Rain threatens this afternoon, so C and I start out on our own from Brynsiencyn at 8:30. It’s a dark morning, and thick layers of cloud cover the mountains across the Strait. The village looks comprehensively closed. The pub’s abandoned and the public toilets are locked. But we do spot that rarity in Anglesey, a […]
Anglesey Coast Path, day 3
A day without rain, the Met Office predicts. There’s rejoicing in Beaumaris. All our guests are gone this morning, and C, H and I wait again outside the Spar for the 9:05 bus to Llanddona. This time the driver’s too polite to express incredulity that we want to go there. From the pub in Llanddona […]
Gwynedd Coast Path, day 19
Heavy rain is forecast until the afternoon. We put off making a start to Bangor as late as we can, but set off from the city centre along Ffordd Ddeiniol towards the Pier around 11:30. The rain’s falling steadily, and only our faces are visible. The long Garth pier, built in 1896 by Lord Penrhyn […]
Anglesey Coast Path, day 2
The rain has stopped, and none is forecast for the rest of the day, as six of us wait in Beaumaris for the bus to Llanddona. The driver looks dubious. ‘Llanddona? Are you sure? There’s nothing there’. But we are sure and he lets us on. We get out by the pub and the public […]
Anglesey Coast Path, day 1
Anglesey has more than enough cars – far more than enough. This struck me the last time I was here a few weeks ago, when it took an hour and a half to go a few miles, and it’s even more obvious today. A crawling queue to cross the Britannia Bridge, then a slow snake […]
Y Llwybr Madyn, 30 mlynedd ymlaen
Y tro hwn, y syniad oedd cyrraedd copa Cadair trwy ddilyn y Llwybr Madyn. (Angen arna i edrych yn y geiriadur i weld bod ‘madyn’ yn hen air am lwynog neu gadno – y ‘Fox’s Path’ yw’r fersiwn Saesneg.) Dewis hollol naturiol oedd hwn, a hynny am ddau reswm. Arhosais i’r noson gynt mewn B&B […]
Gwynedd Coast Path, day 16
We knew today’s trip wouldn’t be a popular choice – it’s just the two of us again. The stretch from Trefor to Dinas Dinlle mainly follows the course of the busy A499 and must count as one of the Wales Coast Path planners’ biggest failures. Presumably they were unable to engineer or negotiate either a […]
Gwynedd Coast Path, day 13
Finding the way to Tywyn in our two cars isn’t easy. Turning off the road to Tudweiliog we miss a minor road to the right. We realise the mistake and trying to correct it, but go wrong again and end up on a narrow farm track behind an alarmed family of ducks. Retracing our steps, […]
