Category: travel
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Four quarters
If you move to live on the coast it doesn’t take long to discover that your world, enriched as it might be by the presence of the sea, has been reduced. You can no longer travel in all directions, but only, at most, in three. I learned this lesson late. I was brought up in…
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Erasmus Lewis: spad, spy, friend of Gulliver
This small corner of Carmarthenshire is new to me – the point where the Cothi flows into the Tywi, just west of Llanegwad. A track leaves the village, passes a cottage, Penygoilan, and a farm, Llwchgwyn, and then turns into a narrow lane that leads down to the banks of the Tywi and a large…
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Cwm Ysgiach
Yma ar y groesffordd yn y bryniau, ymddengys fod pob peth yn bosib. Gallwch chi gymryd unrhyw ffordd o’ch dewis: nôl i Bontlliw, ymlaen i Felindre, i’r gorllewin i Bontarddulais, dros y mynydd i Garnswllt yn Sir Gâr, neu lawr i Gwm Dulais a phentref bach Cwmcerdinen. Fy newis heddiw yw cerdded i Felindre: ddim…
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Yr hen lwybr i eglwys Llangelynnin
Roedd yr haul yn dechrau disgyn wrth imi gychwyn, ar ôl swper, o hen dafarn Y Groes. Cerddais ar hyd y lôn sy’n troelli ar draws gwastadeddau Dyffryn Conwy tuag at bentref Rowen. Cymylau sirws uchel yn unig yn yr awyr glas, a dim argoel o’r glaw trwm sy wedi britho mis Mai eleni. Tu…
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Rhossili sunset
Three of us set off on the south Gower road to watch the sun set in Rhossili. It’s been another day of unbroken sunshine in this strange dry, cold April. The gusty wind of the early morning has dropped to a faint north-westerly breeze. The sky’s still clear, but it’s slowly losing its light. We…
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In praise of commons
Walk for ten minutes from where I write and you’ll arrive at the southern edge of Clyne Common. Houses alongside the track, most of them built within the last ten years, suddenly give way to an expanse of wild, unenclosed land. It stretches ahead of you to the west, and further to the north, gradually…
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Field
The simplest way to get there is from the top of the road that climbs up from the bay. Turning left at the signpost, you walk along a broad path. At one point it’s ankle-deep in mud, like most Gower footpaths in this damp and Covid-walker winter. Suddenly the path opens out into a field. …
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Cwm Amarch
There are places in Wales – places no one would call remote – that few people, even those living here, have visited, or even knew existed. Cwm Amarch, it would be safe to say, is one of them. I got to Minffordd early enough – before ten o’clock. Normally, on a Monday in mid-September, you’d…
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A walk to see Melangell
It’s an airless morning in the dog days of August, and the temperature is already around 23 degrees. I’m setting out from Lake Vyrnwy on a pilgrimage – a walk over the hills to the church and shrine of St Melangell in Cwm Pennant. Of all the Welsh saints Melangell comes at the top of…
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John ‘Walking’ Stewart, an extreme pedestrian
In his time Foster Powell was known for mighty feats of pedestrianism. But his achievements pale in comparison with those of a rather younger contemporary, John ‘Walking’ Stewart (1747-1822). While Powell’s stage was mainly limited to England and Scotland, Stewart walked over large parts of the globe. As well as his wanderings he was known…