Category: travel
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 11: Buttington to Trefonen
At nearly seventeen miles this is going to be our longest day, so C, M and I set out early from Buttington Bridge. It’s already raining steadily. The path takes us along the towpath of the Montgomery Canal, no longer navigable and the preserve of great sheets of algae rather than narrow boats. We pass…
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 10: Cwm to Buttington
We start out early, with a spring in our step: no rain’s forecast, the wind’s slackened, and the day’s climbing is limited. After a short walk along lanes we rejoin the Dyke, and follow it, still tall and well-ditched, downhill and northwards, through trees. The tree roots need constant watching, to avoid a fall. On…
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 9: Knighton to Cwm
Four months have passed and we’re back in Knighton. In another seven days we’ll have finished a project started six and a half years ago to walk round the edges of Wales. This time, C. and I are joined by M., who walked the southern half of Offa’s Dyke 39 years ago, but has never…
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Poets and rebels at Llyn Llech Owain
At the ‘six ways’ junction in Gorslas, at the head of the Gwendraeth Fawr, I’ve driven past the sign to Llyn Llech Owain hundreds of times without ever taking up its invitation – to follow the minor road up the hill, past the church and chapel, to the lake and the country park that surrounds…
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North from Cwmgïedd
Some of the solo days out I remember best are the result of fleeing from some ‘unmissable’ public event. The marriage of Charles Windsor and Diana Spencer on 29 July 1981 was the excuse for a blissful day-long bike ride, from Hereford to Cardiff via the Wye valley, when the lanes were emptied of cars…
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 7: Hay-on-Wye to Kington
Yet another sunny, warm day. This will be a three-water-bottle day, since it’s fifteen miles to Kington and there won’t be anywhere to eat or buy food en route. C and I pick up supplies from a shop and cross the Wye. Instead of carrying on along the road to Clyro, the Path turns immediately…
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 6: Longtown to Hay-on-Wye
Another sunny morning. We pick up some sandwiches from Hopes, Longtown’s village shop. This must surely be the best village shop in the UK. It’s like a mini department store, and stocks almost everything you’d ever want; it even has micro-bookshop, and it acts as a post office, with a sorting office in a metal…
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 5: Llangattock Lingoed to Longtown
Another morning of complete stillness and no clouds (just a criss-cross of high vapour-trails). Today Ca and Ch leave us, and C and I leave the rolling lowlands behind and head for the bare heights of the Black Mountains. First, there’s a bit more of the green country we’ve come to love in Monmouthshire. On…
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 3: Bigsweir to Hendre
The morning’s chilly and overcast, and at first a low mist flows downstream, blocking the view of Llandogo. We march briskly along the riverside drive to Bigsweir Bridge, where G and A are waiting for us. The iron bridge makes an elegant low curve across the water, with metal latticework beneath and a tollhouse on…
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Offa’s Dyke Path, day 2: Chepstow to Bigsweir
After breakfast we wait for three more guestwalkers, J, G and A. It’s unusual to have as many as six in the group, and there can be drawbacks – losing members by accident on the way, for example – but it makes for a rich mix of character and conversation. We cross the old iron…