travel

Wales Coast Path, day 80: Valley to Trearddur Bay

May 30, 2018 3 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 80: Valley to Trearddur Bay

Just the two of us today.  Valley to Trearddur Bay direct is no more than three miles.  Valley to Trearddur Bay via Holyhead Mountain, taking in a circuit of the northern half of Holy Island, is sixteen miles, and that’s our route.  We’re lucky to have a day of continuous sun, from start to finish. […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 85: Malltraeth from Newborough

May 30, 2018 1 Comment
Wales Coast Path, day 85: Malltraeth from Newborough

In Sgwâr Bodorgan in the centre of Aberffraw we’re waiting for Gwynfor.  After twenty minutes we’re still waiting.  We’re on the point of giving up and taking two cars when a bus turns up – the original vehicle had broken down – and we’re bowling along the road south. Today we have a second guest, […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 82: Valley to Rhosneigr

May 29, 2018 1 Comment
Wales Coast Path, day 82: Valley to Rhosneigr

It’s still and warm as we deliver C to the railway station at Rhosneigr for the absurdly long train journey back to Swansea (including an enforced bus journey between Cwmbran and Newport).  Someone has scratched the words ‘… is shit’ as a predicate to the platform sign for Arriva Trains Wales, the unlamented rail franchise […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 83: Rhosneigr to Aberffraw

May 29, 2018 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 83: Rhosneigr to Aberffraw

Rhosneigr is a bloated seaside village, with some forgettable seafront houses, but once past them we’re walking south into the morning wind on a long, dune-edged beach, Traeth Llydan.  The sun has gone today and the distant mountains are reduced to grey silhouettes. A wind surfer races across the water of the bay.  Reaching its […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 84: Aberffraw from Malltraeth

May 28, 2018 2 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 84: Aberffraw from Malltraeth

There’s a royal wedding on, but we’re somewhere else entirely.  Ca and I point the car towards the far north, through Talley, Temple Bar and Llanrhystud in the bright May sunshine.  Coffee in Pysgoty in republican Aberystwyth, where protests quickly forced Oxfam to remove pictures of Harry and Meghan from their bookshop window, and a […]

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Walking to meet heroes

December 22, 2017 1 Comment
Walking to meet heroes

In October 1705 Johann Sebastian Bach set out on foot on a journey of 260 miles.  He was twenty years old.  He’d recently been in a brawl with a musician he’d insulted in the market place of his home town of Arnstadt in Thuringia, central Germany.  The church authorities who employed him as organist in […]

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A biodiversity lesson from India

November 28, 2017 0 Comments
A biodiversity lesson from India

We tread softly behind our guide, taking care not to make the dry leaves crackle and alarm the birds around the Chambal Lodge estate.  He points upwards, to a branch where owls are asleep (it’s mid-afternoon, and we’re surprised to see owls at all).  A large Scops owl sits stock still, and stares at us […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 76: Moelfre to Porth Amlwch

September 15, 2017 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 76: Moelfre to Porth Amlwch

It’s rained all night, at times heavily.  Over breakfast we ask each other whether water will mean trouble for us again during today’s walk, from Moelfre to Amlwch Port.  We stare at the map.  We consult tide tables.  We scrutinise Mr Rogers.  We think we’ll be safe.  As it turns out, we’re wrong. The weather […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 87: Brynsiencyn to Menai Bridge

September 14, 2017 2 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 87: Brynsiencyn to Menai Bridge

Rain threatens this afternoon, so C and I start out on our own from Brynsiencyn at 8:30.  It’s a dark morning, and thick layers of cloud cover the mountains across the Strait.  The village looks comprehensively closed.  The pub’s abandoned and the public toilets are locked.  But we do spot that rarity in Anglesey, a […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 75: Llanddona to Moelfre

September 12, 2017 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 75: Llanddona to Moelfre

A day without rain, the Met Office predicts.  There’s rejoicing in Beaumaris.  All our guests are gone this morning, and C, H and I wait again outside the Spar for the 9:05 bus to Llanddona.  This time the driver’s too polite to express incredulity that we want to go there.  From the pub in Llanddona […]

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