travel

Wales Coast Path, day 82: Valley to Rhosneigr

May 29, 2018 1 Comment
Wales Coast Path, day 82: Valley to Rhosneigr

It’s still and warm as we deliver C to the railway station at Rhosneigr for the absurdly long train journey back to Swansea (including an enforced bus journey between Cwmbran and Newport).  Someone has scratched the words ‘… is shit’ as a predicate to the platform sign for Arriva Trains Wales, the unlamented rail franchise […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 83: Rhosneigr to Aberffraw

May 29, 2018 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 83: Rhosneigr to Aberffraw

Rhosneigr is a bloated seaside village, with some forgettable seafront houses, but once past them we’re walking south into the morning wind on a long, dune-edged beach, Traeth Llydan.  The sun has gone today and the distant mountains are reduced to grey silhouettes. A wind surfer races across the water of the bay.  Reaching its […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 84: Aberffraw from Malltraeth

May 28, 2018 2 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 84: Aberffraw from Malltraeth

There’s a royal wedding on, but we’re somewhere else entirely.  Ca and I point the car towards the far north, through Talley, Temple Bar and Llanrhystud in the bright May sunshine.  Coffee in Pysgoty in republican Aberystwyth, where protests quickly forced Oxfam to remove pictures of Harry and Meghan from their bookshop window, and a […]

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Walking to meet heroes

December 22, 2017 1 Comment
Walking to meet heroes

In October 1705 Johann Sebastian Bach set out on foot on a journey of 260 miles.  He was twenty years old.  He’d recently been in a brawl with a musician he’d insulted in the market place of his home town of Arnstadt in Thuringia, central Germany.  The church authorities who employed him as organist in […]

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A biodiversity lesson from India

November 28, 2017 0 Comments
A biodiversity lesson from India

We tread softly behind our guide, taking care not to make the dry leaves crackle and alarm the birds around the Chambal Lodge estate.  He points upwards, to a branch where owls are asleep (it’s mid-afternoon, and we’re surprised to see owls at all).  A large Scops owl sits stock still, and stares at us […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 76: Moelfre to Porth Amlwch

September 15, 2017 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 76: Moelfre to Porth Amlwch

It’s rained all night, at times heavily.  Over breakfast we ask each other whether water will mean trouble for us again during today’s walk, from Moelfre to Amlwch Port.  We stare at the map.  We consult tide tables.  We scrutinise Mr Rogers.  We think we’ll be safe.  As it turns out, we’re wrong. The weather […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 87: Brynsiencyn to Menai Bridge

September 14, 2017 2 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 87: Brynsiencyn to Menai Bridge

Rain threatens this afternoon, so C and I start out on our own from Brynsiencyn at 8:30.  It’s a dark morning, and thick layers of cloud cover the mountains across the Strait.  The village looks comprehensively closed.  The pub’s abandoned and the public toilets are locked.  But we do spot that rarity in Anglesey, a […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 75: Llanddona to Moelfre

September 12, 2017 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 75: Llanddona to Moelfre

A day without rain, the Met Office predicts.  There’s rejoicing in Beaumaris.  All our guests are gone this morning, and C, H and I wait again outside the Spar for the 9:05 bus to Llanddona.  This time the driver’s too polite to express incredulity that we want to go there.  From the pub in Llanddona […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 88: Bangor to Llanfairfechan

September 12, 2017 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 88: Bangor to Llanfairfechan

Heavy rain is forecast until the afternoon.  We put off making a start to Bangor as late as we can, but set off from the city centre along Ffordd Ddeiniol towards the Pier around 11:30.  The rain’s falling steadily, and only our faces are visible.  The long Garth pier, built in 1896 by Lord Penrhyn […]

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Wales Coast Path, day 74: Beaumaris from Llanddona

September 11, 2017 0 Comments
Wales Coast Path, day 74: Beaumaris from Llanddona

The rain has stopped, and none is forecast for the rest of the day, as six of us wait in Beaumaris for the bus to Llanddona.  The driver looks dubious.  ‘Llanddona?  Are you sure?  There’s nothing there’.  But we are sure and he lets us on.  We get out by the pub and the public […]

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