Van Gogh up close
The National Gallery is celebrating its 200th birthday with a very special exhibition. Surprisingly, it’s the first show it’s every mounted devoted to the paintings of Vincent Van Gogh. To be able to look at them intently and quietly, in the privileged conditions of a private view, is quite an experience. The exhibition is special […]
Is there a history of walking?
It’s a question that wouldn’t have been asked, let alone answered, before Rebecca Solnit’s pioneering book Wanderlust, published in 2000. Solnit is a writer probably best known for her books on women – she was the first to formulate the idea of ‘mansplaining’ – but her range of reference is startlingly wide, and her work […]
Blodau a breuddwydion
Cysur mawr, yn y cyfnod hwn o boen a galar, yw ymweld â Glenys yn ei thŷ yn y Mwmbwls â’i olwg digymar dros Fae Abertawe. Dyma ni’n dau’n cerdded lawr ’na amser coffi. Rownd bloc y teras, tu heibio i’r lotments yn haul y bore, trwy’r ardd gyda’i choeden palmwydd a’i cherflyn metal ar […]
Burying Lucy
Most visitors to Syracuse stick to Ortygia, the tear-shaped island that was the original site of the Greek colony, and Neapolis, with its large Greek theatre and sculptured caves. The Basilica di Santa Lucia is slightly off the beaten track, and few visitors were there last week. When you’ve been used to the elaborate Baroque […]
Three solitary figures in a landscape
1 Man on a mountain Caspar David Friedrich painted the work usually called The wanderer above the sea of fog in 1818. Though it found little fame at the time, it’s long been seen as the quintessence of German Romanticism in the visual arts. Friedrich was the mountain man of the early nineteenth century. Until […]
Walking across Afghanistan
There can’t be many more walks more extreme than the one described by Rory Stewart in his book The places in between. He takes us with him on a journey he made, entirely on foot, across the central regions of Afghanistan in 2002, from Herat to Kabul, soon after the US-led invasion of the country […]
Cyffro yng Ngholfa, 1912
Pentref bach iawn yw Colfa (Colva), rhyw saith milltir i’r gogledd o Glaerwen (Clyro), cartref Francis Kilvert. Dim rhagor, a dweud y gwir, na hen eglwys, sy’n dyddio o’r drydedd ganrif ar ddeg, a ffermdy, oedd yn arfer bod yn dafarn o’r enw The Sun Inn yn nyddiau Kilvert (‘Mrs Phillips brought me a pint […]
Beacons Way, day 2: Llanthony to Crickhowell
It’s before seven o’clock in the morning, but it has the look of a dark day to come. I glance out of my bedroom window overlooking the ruins of Llanthony Priory. I can’t see the top of the Hatterrall Ridge I’d descended yesterday afternoon, or the top of the hill I’ll be climbing this morning. […]
Beacons Way, day 1: Abergavenny to Llanthony
I’ve had Ffordd y Bannau, the Beacons Way, in my sights for years. I bought the guide written by John Sansom, the deviser of the Way, and Arwel Michael, but it lay on the shelf unused for a decade or more till now. The reason I hesitated is that, as a 100-mile path across almost […]
Miss La La at the Cirque Fernando
One of my favourite paintings by Edgar Degas is Miss La La at the Cirque Fernando. As well as being one of his boldest – it’s probably one of the most audacious compositions ever painted in the nineteenth century – it has the great advantage of being easily seeable, since it’s usually on display in […]