Wales Coast Path, day 88: Bangor to Llanfairfechan
Heavy rain is forecast until the afternoon. We put off making a start to Bangor as late as we can, but set off from the city centre along Ffordd Ddeiniol towards the Pier around 11:30. The rain’s falling steadily, and only our faces are visible. The long Garth pier, built in 1896 by Lord Penrhyn […]
Wales Coast Path, day 74: Beaumaris from Llanddona
The rain has stopped, and none is forecast for the rest of the day, as six of us wait in Beaumaris for the bus to Llanddona. The driver looks dubious. ‘Llanddona? Are you sure? There’s nothing there’. But we are sure and he lets us on. We get out by the pub and the public […]
Wales Coast Path, day 72: Caernarfon to Bangor
Caernarfon to Bangor isn’t one of the Wales Coast Path’s happier stretches. On a day of near continuous rain it really can’t be recommended. And if, on top of that, you get lost not once but three times, it can turn into a bit of a torment. Normally a bus journey is a fine start […]
Wales Coast Path, day 73: Menai Bridge to Beaumaris
Anglesey has more than enough cars – far more than enough. This struck me the last time I was here a few weeks ago, when it took an hour and a half to go a few miles, and it’s even more obvious today. A crawling queue to cross the Britannia Bridge, then a slow snake […]
Is it time for a National Trust of Wales?
There was a time when the National Trust was invulnerable and beyond criticism. Its aims are so obviously virtuous, and the experience of visiting its sites so rewarding that anyone bold enough to question its ethos or ways of working would have been seen as eccentric. The Trust is still one of the most popular […]
John Ystumllyn: an African in 18th century Eifionydd
It wasn’t his real name, ‘John Ystumllyn’, but one the locals gave him. Another was ‘Jac Du’ or ‘Jack Black’. How he arrived, unwillingly, in north Wales is obscure. What is certain is that his origins were in Africa, and that he found a home for himself and his family in the Criccieth area […]
Reading and silence
I’m working my way, slowly – that seems the best way – through Sara Maitland’s A book of silence, and I’ve reached the part where she discusses the paradoxical relationship between reading and silence. On the one hand, reading the way we do it today is a silent communion between writer and reader. Silent, on […]
Y Llwybr Madyn, 30 mlynedd ymlaen
Y tro hwn, y syniad oedd cyrraedd copa Cadair trwy ddilyn y Llwybr Madyn. (Angen arna i edrych yn y geiriadur i weld bod ‘madyn’ yn hen air am lwynog neu gadno – y ‘Fox’s Path’ yw’r fersiwn Saesneg.) Dewis hollol naturiol oedd hwn, a hynny am ddau reswm. Arhosais i’r noson gynt mewn B&B […]
Alma-Tadema’s uncarnal classics
Alluring women in chiffon and sandals, bright marble benches, azure seas, flower petals falling like rain. This was the recipe Lawrence Alma-Tadema hit on for his paintings of scenes from ancient Rome. Thousands were drawn to buy them, or at least reproductions of them, in late Victorian and Edwardian England. It was all a long […]
Mr Skates’s ring cycle
The row over the ‘Iron Ring’ proposed for Flint Castle seems to be over, so the time is right to think more calmly about what we’ve learnt. First, a quick summary of what happened (there is an ignominious prequel, which I’ll skip). Cadw, responsible for safeguarding scheduled historic monuments in Wales, together with Visit Wales, the […]